Sunday, December 25, 2011

Amplifier & Monitor Repair

I fixed a couple of electronic things today, posting about it here in the hopes that others may find it useful.

The first was a Kenwood amplifier. The remote control stopped working with it. There didn't seem to be anything wrong with the remote itself, so I decided to take the lid off and check the infrared receiver box. This turned out to be a real pain in the ass; they bolted the knob things to the case, the front panel is attached using those easily broken flat wires, and there were about 2 dozen screws to take out.

Refer to the dimly lit picture of the guts of the unit strewn about my dirty carpet:



 
Anyways, I got it all apart and found the infrared thing, it looks like this:



 
Flipping the board over, I found that the 3 pins going to that were soldered very poorly, not making good contact to the traces.



 
So I resoldered the pins, now it works. Yay.




Then my monitor broke. It's an Acer AL2216W. For the past couple weeks, the LED kept turning this dim red color and it was really hard to get the screen to stay on.

I took the lid off and removed the metal panel over the back. I had to take out the screws and bolts for the power plug and video plugs to be able to do this.

See the circled thing? That there is a high voltage capacitor; if you ever go to fix any sort of monitor, once you get it apart, find this big capacitor and short the two leads out using a screwdriver.
If you don't discharge it, and then accidentally touch it, you'll get a nasty burn or possibly die.



 
Ok so I removed the power board and took a good look at it. One of the capacitors stood out. See that crud at the top? That's electrolyte that leaked out of the vent. Once a cap does that, there's no way it can hold as much charge as it's supposed to.



 
So I busted out my desoldering iron and removed it.



 
Whenever you replace a capacitor, always check the ratings. In this case it is 10 volts at 2200uF. 10 volts is the maximum it can store; it will only store as much as the circuit requires. In this case, this part of the circuit only saw 5 volts,so this was OK. The important thing is to make sure the capcitor you pick to replace it has the same, or higher ratings. If it's lower it wont work or will explode.



 
In this case, I found a 16 volt x 2200 uF one in my parts bin. You could just as easily buy one online at Mouser. Notice how it's next to the heatsinks? That means you should get one rated for the high temperature, which is denoted by the color of the case. In this case, I should have replaced it with a black cap, but I used a blue one because it's what I had on hand. (Do as I say, not as I do!) Honestly if that part of the circuit regularly goes higher than 185*F there would be bigger problems than just the cap..



 
I put it all back together and now it works. Woo.


Sunday, June 19, 2011

Cyclopticus model/Chexman ingame





Got the cyclops flemoid model made by Seth into the game, it replaces the manhack.

Here's a Max render:




Ingame:


The Chex man is also ingame now, unfortunatly I haven't figured out the animation system yet so he just idles:


also his eyes are just a tad too far apart so he's stuck with a permanent derp face :(

Next up will be the Large Zorcher viewmodel, then I'll try to fix up some of these previous problems an make a video of everything!

Saturday, June 11, 2011

Chexmod Progress

Here's what's been added to Chexmod since that last post.

Flemoid exploding animations:

Basically flemoids explode when they take enough damage.  Since they're slime-based monsters, they can "reform" a few seconds later and continue attacking the player.
Eventually the engine will recognize when a flemoid was killed with an energy weapon, and play the animation where they actually disappear.




This system creates a number of benefits:

1. Gives us an excuse to have projectile weapons and not just zorchers in the game
2. Opens up possibilities for gameplay when you have an enemy type that can only be killed with certain weapons
3. Fits with the story better, in terms of what weapons would actually be on hand


New guns:


Pepperbox:

Antique gun that will originate from the history museum level.




Spamcannon:

Full auto shotgun carried by security guards, found on most maps.



Large Zorcher:

Not finalized yet, but it will probably take out most flemoids in one hit like in Chex Quest.




Also:

The Chex man:

WIP, example model from Mudbox combined with a few primitives.  He looks pretty damn creepy.




More updates coming soon!